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Expedition to “Pobeda” Peak | “Neofit” tourist company, Karakol town
“Pobeda” Peak (7.439 m)
Base Camp South Inylchek will be active between 6th of July and 31st of August in 2014.
Among all the other peaks of the grand Tien Shan mountain range Pobeda Peak over ranges them with more than 400 meters. Having complex and broad structure, this peak produces the most reverential impression on people. Soviet mountaineers climbed the peak in the thirties of the last century. However, until the spring of 1943 it wasn’t known that they had actually reached the highest summit of the Northern mountain range. The Soviet team managed to conquer the peak in 1943 and at last it was named Pobeda Peak with the meaning of "victory peak".
To climb this mountain is rather exhausting and dangerous. Pobeda Peak is considered “ the coldest mountain on earth". Most routes up it start from the Northwest and West and in fact it’s one of the northest 7000 peaks in the world. Because of all these factors climbers experience an additional difficulty in reaching it. A lot of climbers, mostly Russian, sacrificed their lives on this mountain. For the last 10 years not many mountaineers have climbed the mountain due to its bad reputation.
The most often climbed route, coming from the Southwest involves many kilometers of a mixed and broken ridge which is all situated above 7000 meter.
Advanced bace camp is located at Zvjozdochka glacier at 4600 m. Then early in the morning we head for camp at 5300m on Dickiy pass. Camp 3 is at snow plateau at 5700 metres where we will either use snow caves or tents. Further camps are then established at 6400m and 6800m, the upper camp being just before the long traverse (about 6 km. at the altitude above 7000m.) to the summit ridge. A final snow cave is normally established at 7100m towards the other end of the long traverse. The summit day is relatively long.
Costs of full and small packages are the same with costs of full and small packages of Khan-Tengri peak expedition
Additional service for the additional payment